The Philippines, a country steeped in coffee tradition, is witnessing a shift in how Filipinos consume their daily cup, especially for specialty coffee --- a market expected to reach US$590.9 million in industry by 2025.
We spoke with Michael Harris Conlin, 2019 Philippine National Barista Champion, Owner of The Giving Café: A Social Enterprise, and CEO of Henry & Sons --- a powerhouse formed from the merger of three legacy coffee brands with over 50 years of history --- for his unique perspective on this evolving landscape.
SPEED MEETS DISCERNMENT
Filipinos are looking for convenient ways to enjoy their coffee. "After the pandemic," Michael Harris observes, "more Filipinos opt for speed because they're back to work already." This urgency for a quick caffeine fix isn't compromising taste, however. "Consumers have become more discerning," he says, crediting online resources like YouTube for educating coffee drinkers. According to him, Filipinos nowadays crave speed and convenience: they look for a more convenient way of getting that high-quality coffee and the much-needed caffeine kick in the shortest time possible.
This combination of speed and discernment presents a unique challenge and opportunity for coffee businesses in the Philippines, demanding a strategic adaptation to meet the evolving preferences of a discerning and time-pressed consumer.
A DOUBLE-EDGED SWORD
The demand for speedy, high-quality coffee has fueled the emergence of quick-service coffee, and tools like digital or mobile apps and equipment such as automatic coffee machines minimize the waiting times and streamline the specialty coffee experience. Michael Harris sees all these as a positive development, stating, "It's good because people are starting to pay more attention to their coffee and (really) looking for good coffee."
However, Michael Harris raised a concerning trend within this development. "There are some coffee businesses who see the opportunity and start selling sub-standard coffee in the guise of specialty, and is crashing the market price," he warns. Furthermore, Michael Harris cited the example of iced specialty coffees sold for as low as Php39 (USD0.67) per cup in provinces such as Davao and Cagayan De Oro.
"They call or label the product specialty, but with one sip, you'll understand why it's a one-time buy," he cautions. This "cheap specialty" coffee misinforms consumers and undermines the value of genuine specialty coffee beans.
EVOLUTION, NOT DILUTION
Despite this concern, Michael Harris maintains an optimistic outlook, "In the long run, businesses built on genuine quality will outlast those cutting corners in the specialty coffee market," he asserts. He expresses confidence that authentic specialty coffee will prevail as discerning consumers differentiate between genuine quality and misleading labels.
The rise of specialty coffee on the go reflects a growing appreciation for specialty coffee, often associated with slower preparation and more elaborate brewing methods. In Michael Harris' view, "specialty coffee on the go represents an evolution of the specialty coffee market and not a dilution of its core values."
SLOW SIPS TO FAST BREWS
This evolution requires adaptation for busy coffee shops that use traditional methods of coffee preparation. "Those coffee shops that take more than 20 minutes to serve a cup of coffee risk losing customers," Michael Harris cautions. He shares a personal experience from his recent trip to Busan, where an hour-long queue and a 40-minute wait for a single cup of pour-over specialty coffee left him unimpressed. "It's an established name, this coffee shop," he says, "but the workflow, movement of the barista, and café set up, is very, very important...it might mean the owner did it on purpose or they don't care or respect their customer's time."
Coffee shops must be efficient without compromising quality. Michael Harris emphasizes the importance of automation where machines can consistently produce decent cups of specialty coffee quickly. "Efficiency, no wasted time," he emphasizes. Striking a balance between speed and quality is crucial for success.
FINDING YOUR SPECIALTY COFFEE ON-THE-GO
Michael Harris offers valuable advice for enthusiasts looking for a specialty coffee on-the-go fix: "Do your research. Look for reputable coffee shops known for their quality and efficiency. Explore local options and experiment to find your ideal on-the-go coffee experience." This exploration will not only satisfy your palate but also help contribute to the growth of a market built on authenticity and respect for consumers' time.
A BALANCING ACT
The Philippine coffee scene is brewing with change. Consumers demand speed and quality, fueling the growth of on-the-go coffee options. While some exploit this trend with misleading labeling, the future of specialty coffee remains bright for businesses that prioritize genuine quality and efficient service. By adapting to the evolving landscape and embracing innovation, coffee shops can ensure that the Philippines remains a nation where every cup, regardless of how it is made, is a satisfying and flavourful experience.
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